Amalfi Coast Road Trip: Worth the Chaos? The Honest Driver's Guide

The Amalfi Coast: Italy's Most Spectacular Drive

The SS163 — the Amalfi Drive — is 50 kilometres of road that clings to the cliffs between Sorrento and Salerno, passing through villages that tumble down to the sea, past lemon groves and bougainvillea, with views of the Tyrrhenian Sea that change with every bend. It is one of the great drives in the world.

The Route: Sorrento to Salerno

The classic direction is west to east: start in Sorrento, drive through Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, Ravello, and finish in Salerno. This puts the sea on your right for most of the drive, which is where the views are. Allow a full day minimum.

Positano: The Most Photographed Village in Italy

Positano is a cascade of pastel-coloured buildings tumbling down a cliff to a small beach, with the Church of Santa Maria Assunta's majolica-tiled dome at the centre. Arrive before 9am or after 5pm to experience it without the crowds.

Stay at Le Sirenuse — a 1951 palazzo converted into a hotel by the Sersale family, who still run it today. The terrace restaurant has the finest view in Positano.

Praiano: The Secret Village

Praiano is 10 kilometres east of Positano and receives a fraction of the visitors. Casa Angelina is a design hotel built into the cliff, with an infinity pool that appears to float above the sea.

Amalfi: The Town That Gave the Coast Its Name

Amalfi was once a maritime republic that rivalled Venice and Genoa. The Cathedral of Sant'Andrea — built in the 9th century with a facade that mixes Arab-Norman and Byzantine influences — is evidence of a city that once traded across the Mediterranean world.

Buy limoncello here. The Amalfi Coast produces some of the finest lemons in the world, and the limoncello made from them is the best in Italy.

Ravello: Above the Clouds

Ravello sits 350 metres above the sea. Villa Cimbrone has the Terrace of Infinity: a balustrade of classical busts at the edge of a cliff, with a view that Greta Garbo called the most beautiful she had ever seen.

Belmond Hotel Caruso is the finest hotel on the Amalfi Coast: a converted 11th-century palace with an infinity pool that appears to hang above the sea.

Practical Tips

Car size matters: Rent the smallest car available. A Fiat 500 is ideal.

Timing: Drive on a weekday in May, June, or September. July and August are beautiful but the traffic is brutal.

Ferries: The ferry service between Positano, Amalfi, and Salerno is often faster than the road in summer. Consider driving one direction and taking the ferry back.

Best Time to Visit

January - February

Winter months see fewer tourists, but expect cooler temperatures (around 8-12°C) and occasional rain. With hotel prices dropping to €50-100 per night, it’s an excellent time for budget travelers. However, many restaurants may be closed.

March - April

Spring brings warmer weather (12-18°C) and blooming flowers, making it a picturesque time to visit. Expect crowds to start building, especially in Easter. Prices range from €80-150 for hotels.

May - June

These months offer ideal conditions: warm weather (18-25°C), blooming lemon trees, and moderately-sized crowds. Hotel rates typically range from €100-250 per night. May also hosts the Lemon Festival in Amalfi, celebrating the local citrus.

July - August

Peak tourist season, with sweltering heat (25-30°C) and heavy crowds. Prices soar, often exceeding €250 for luxury accommodations. Beaches are packed, and reservations are necessary for dining.

September - October

Fall offers a pleasant climate (20-25°C) and a gradual decrease in tourists. Prices drop to €100-200 per night. The Grape Harvest Festival in September celebrates the local vineyards.

November - December

Winter returns with cooler temperatures (10-15°C) and fewer crowds. While some establishments close, prices drop significantly to around €50-100 per night, making it an appealing time for solitude seekers.

Where to Stay

Budget (€50-100/night)

Mid-range (€100-250/night)

Luxury (€250+)

Getting There & Around

Flights

Local Transport

Once in Naples, take the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento (about €4, journey time 1 hour). To explore the Amalfi Coast, consider renting a car or using the local SITA buses (€2-3 per ride). For a scenic twist, ferries run between major coastal towns, offering breathtaking views.

Journey Times

What to Eat & Drink

1. Gnocchi alla Sorrentina (€10-15): Soft potato dumplings baked with tomato sauce and mozzarella. Try it at Ristorante da Costantino in Sorrento.

2. Scialatielli ai Frutti di Mare (€15-20): Fresh pasta with seafood in a light tomato sauce. Da Adolfo in Positano is renowned for this dish.

3. Limoncello (€10-25): A sweet lemon liqueur, perfect as an after-dinner drink. Look for artisanal brands at Fattoria dei Limoni in Amalfi.

4. Melanzane alla Parmigiana (€10-15): Layers of eggplant, tomato sauce, and cheese. Trattoria Il Pino in Praiano serves a delightful version.

5. Pizza Napoletana (€8-12): Classic Neapolitan pizza, thin and topped with fresh ingredients. Pizzeria da Michele in Naples is worth the detour.

6. Torta Caprese (€5-8): A chocolate and almond cake originating from Capri. Sample it at Caffè Vittoria in Amalfi.

7. Frittura di Pesce (€15-20): A mix of fried fish, perfect for a beachside lunch. Head to Da Gennaro in Positano for this treat.

8. Sfogliatella (€2-4): A flaky pastry filled with sweet ricotta. Enjoy this local delight at any bakery, but Pasticceria Pansa in Amalfi is a favorite.

Insider Tips

1. Parking is Limited: Many towns have limited parking and steep fees. Look for public lots or consider using the local bus to avoid the headache.

2. Off-Peak Visits: Visit popular spots like the Cathedral of Sant'Andrea early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds.

3. Local Markets: Explore local markets in Amalfi for fresh produce and handmade goods. The Amalfi Market on Wednesdays is a must-visit.

4. Hidden Beaches: Seek out lesser-known beaches like Marina di Praia in Praiano for a quieter experience away from the tourist throngs.

5. Explore Beyond the Coast: Venture inland to discover charming mountain villages like Nocelle and Bomerano, known for their hiking trails and local culture.

Conclusion

The Amalfi Coast is one of those places that lives up to every expectation. Drive it slowly, stop often, and eat everything, allowing the breathtaking landscapes and rich history to unfold before you. Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or culinary delights, this road trip promises an unforgettable journey.