Azores Island Hopping: Nine Volcanic Islands, One Extraordinary Archipelago

Nine Islands, One Extraordinary World

The Azores sit in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, equidistant between Europe and North America, and they feel like both and neither. The landscape is volcanic and dramatic — calderas filled with impossibly blue lakes, lava fields stretching to the sea, hot springs bubbling up through the earth. The culture is Portuguese but distinct — slower, more self-sufficient, shaped by centuries of isolation. The wildlife is extraordinary — the waters around the islands are among the best whale watching destinations on earth.

There are nine islands in the Azores archipelago, spread across 600km of ocean. Each has its own character. Sao Miguel is the largest and most visited, with the famous Sete Cidades twin lakes and the Furnas thermal valley. Pico has the highest mountain in Portugal (2,351m) and the finest wine in the Atlantic. Faial is the sailor's island, the mid-Atlantic waypoint where transatlantic yachts stop to refuel and resupply. Flores is the most remote and most beautiful, with waterfalls that fall directly into the sea.

Island hopping the Azores — by inter-island flights or ferry — is one of the great European adventures, and one that remains largely unknown outside Portugal.

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Month-by-Month: When to Visit

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The sweet spot: May through September for the best weather, calmest seas, and most reliable whale watching. July and August are the warmest months. April and May are excellent for whale watching — the spring migration brings the greatest variety of species.

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The Islands

Sao Miguel — The Green Island

Sao Miguel is the largest island and the main entry point. The landscape is extraordinary: the Sete Cidades caldera contains two lakes (one green, one blue) separated by a bridge; the Furnas valley has boiling mud pools, geysers, and hot springs; the Lagoa do Fogo (Lake of Fire) sits in a volcanic crater at 590m altitude.

Sete Cidades — The twin lakes in the caldera are the most photographed sight in the Azores. The viewpoint from Vista do Rei gives the classic panorama. The 12km trail around the caldera rim is one of the finest hikes in Portugal.

Furnas — The thermal valley where locals cook cozido (a meat and vegetable stew) in pots buried in the volcanic earth for 6–8 hours. The Terra Nostra Garden, with its thermal pool and 200-year-old botanical collection, is one of the finest gardens in the Atlantic.

Whale watching from Ponta Delgada — Sao Miguel is one of the best whale watching bases in the Azores. Sperm whales are resident year-round; blue whales, fin whales, and sei whales pass through on migration. The vigia (lookout posts) on the hillsides above the coast were used by whalers to spot whales — now they're used by whale watching operators.

Pico — The Mountain Island

Pico is dominated by its volcano — a perfect cone rising 2,351m from the sea, the highest point in Portugal. The climb to the summit takes 3–4 hours and is one of the finest mountain experiences in the Atlantic. The view from the top — on a clear day — extends to all nine islands.

Pico wine — The vineyards of Pico are UNESCO-listed: low stone walls (currais) built from black lava rock protect the vines from the Atlantic wind. The Verdelho wine produced here is one of Portugal's most distinctive — dry, mineral, and extraordinary with seafood.

Whale watching from Lajes do Pico — Pico was the centre of the Azorean whaling industry until 1987. The Museu dos Baleeiros (Whalers' Museum) tells the story with extraordinary photographs and artefacts. The whale watching from Pico is among the best in the archipelago.

Faial — The Blue Island

Faial is the sailor's island — the mid-Atlantic waypoint where transatlantic yachts stop to refuel and resupply. The marina at Horta is covered in paintings left by visiting sailors, a tradition that began in the 1940s and now covers every available surface.

Peter's Cafe Sport — The most famous bar in the Atlantic, open since 1918. Every transatlantic sailor stops here. The gin and tonic is legendary.

Capelinhos — The western tip of Faial, where a volcanic eruption in 1957–58 added 2.4km² of new land to the island. The landscape — black lava fields, a half-buried lighthouse, the sea — is one of the most dramatic in the Azores.

Flores — The Flower Island

Flores is the westernmost island in the Azores and the westernmost point of Europe. It is also the most beautiful — a landscape of waterfalls, lakes, and hydrangea-covered hillsides that has barely been touched by tourism.

The waterfalls — Flores has more waterfalls per square kilometre than almost anywhere in Europe. The Poco do Bacalhau waterfall drops 100m into a natural pool. The Cascata do Ribeira Grande falls directly into the sea.

Corvo — The smallest island in the Azores (17km²), accessible by ferry from Flores. The entire island is a single volcanic caldera, and the walk around the rim gives views of the Atlantic in every direction. The population is 400 people.

Terceira — The Baroque Island

Terceira's capital, Angra do Heroismo, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — a perfectly preserved 16th-century Portuguese colonial city with baroque churches, colourful houses, and a fort that has guarded the mid-Atlantic since 1534.

The Algar do Carvao — A volcanic tube 90m deep, accessible by a staircase. The interior — with stalactites, a lake, and extraordinary geological formations — is one of the most unusual natural sites in the Azores.

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Whale Watching: The World's Best

The waters around the Azores are among the richest whale watching destinations on earth. The deep ocean trenches around the islands attract sperm whales year-round, and the spring and summer migrations bring blue whales, fin whales, sei whales, humpback whales, and up to 20 other cetacean species.

Sperm whales — Resident year-round. The largest toothed predator on earth, diving to 2,000m to hunt giant squid. Regularly seen from all islands.

Blue whales — The largest animal ever to have lived on earth. Pass through the Azores on spring migration (March to May). The sight of a 30-metre blue whale surfacing 50 metres from a small boat is one of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences on the planet.

Swimming with sperm whales — Several operators on Pico and Sao Miguel offer in-water encounters with sperm whales. This is one of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences available anywhere — swimming alongside a 15-metre sperm whale in open ocean. Strictly regulated and genuinely life-changing.

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Where to Stay: Three Tiers

Luxury (€200–€500/night)

Furnas Boutique Hotel (Sao Miguel) — A thermal spa hotel in the Furnas valley, with direct access to the hot springs and a restaurant serving the famous cozido das Furnas.

Aldeia da Cuada (Flores) — Restored traditional stone cottages on the most beautiful island in the Azores. The isolation, the views, and the silence are extraordinary.

Mid-Range (€80–€200/night)

Hotel do Canal (Faial, Horta) — The best hotel in Horta, overlooking the marina where the transatlantic yachts moor. The bar is the social centre of the island.

Quinta das Merces (Terceira) — A converted manor house near Angra do Heroismo, with a pool and gardens. The best base for exploring Terceira.

Budget (€30–€80/night)

Guesthouses throughout the islands — The Azores have an excellent network of simple guesthouses (casas de campo) offering rooms from €30/night. The quality is consistently good and the hospitality is extraordinary.

Camping — Several islands have official campsites in beautiful locations. The campsite at Sete Cidades, inside the caldera, is one of the finest in Portugal.

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What to Eat

Cozido das Furnas — The signature dish of the Azores: a stew of beef, pork, chicken, blood sausage, and vegetables cooked in a pot buried in the volcanic earth of Furnas for 6–8 hours. The result is extraordinarily tender and flavourful.

Lapas — Limpets grilled on a hot plate with butter, garlic, and lemon. The definitive Azorean snack, eaten at every bar and restaurant near the sea.

Alcatra — The signature dish of Terceira: beef braised in red wine with spices in a clay pot. Eaten at the island's festas (festivals) and in traditional restaurants.

Queijo de Sao Jorge — A semi-hard cheese from the island of Sao Jorge, aged for 3–7 months. One of Portugal's finest cheeses, with a sharp, complex flavour.

Pico wine — The Verdelho and Arinto wines from Pico's UNESCO-listed vineyards are extraordinary with seafood. Buy directly from the cooperatives on the island.

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Getting There & Island Hopping

By Air: Joao Paulo II Airport (PDL) on Sao Miguel receives direct flights from Lisbon (2 hours), Porto (2 hours), London (3 hours), and several other European cities. SATA Air Azores operates inter-island flights (30–50 minutes, €50–100 one-way).

By Ferry: Atlanticoline operates ferry services between the central group islands (Faial, Pico, Sao Jorge, Graciosa, Terceira) from April to October. The ferry between Faial and Pico takes 30 minutes and is one of the most scenic short crossings in the Atlantic.

Recommended island hopping route (10 days): Sao Miguel (3 nights) → Terceira (1 night) → Faial (2 nights) → Pico (2 nights) → Flores (2 nights). Return to Sao Miguel for the flight home.

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5 Insider Tips

1. Book whale watching in advance. The best operators (Futurismo on Sao Miguel, Espaço Talassa on Pico) have limited capacity and sell out in peak season. Book before you arrive.

2. Rent a car on every island. The islands are small but the roads are winding and the distances between sights are too far to walk. Car rental costs €30–50/day and is essential for exploring properly.

3. Visit Flores. Most visitors to the Azores see only Sao Miguel. Flores — the most remote and most beautiful island — rewards the extra effort with waterfalls, lakes, and a landscape that feels genuinely untouched.

4. Eat at the local tascas. The best food in the Azores is not in tourist restaurants. The local tascas (simple restaurants) serve fresh fish, lapas, and cozido at prices that are extraordinary value.

5. Check the weather before hiking. The Azorean weather is famously changeable — four seasons in one day is a local cliche that is also true. The calderas and mountain trails can be in cloud when the coast is sunny. Check the forecast and be prepared to change plans.

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The TheTripsites Verdict

The Azores are one of Europe's great secrets — and they are slowly being discovered. The combination of volcanic landscapes, extraordinary wildlife, and a culture that has maintained its distinctiveness despite centuries of isolation is unique in the Atlantic.

Come for the whale watching. Come for the hiking. Come for the wine and the cheese and the lapas grilled on a hot plate by the sea. Come for the silence of Flores and the sailors' paintings in Horta and the cozido buried in the volcanic earth of Furnas.

Come before everyone else does.