Nazaré, Portugal: Should You Actually Watch the World's Biggest Waves?

Nazaré is a small fishing town on Portugal's Silver Coast, 135km north of Lisbon. For most of the year, it is a charming, unhurried place of colourful boats, dried fish, and women in traditional seven-skirt costumes. But between October and March, when the Atlantic swells arrive, Nazaré transforms into the most dramatic surfing spectacle on earth.

Why Are the Waves So Big?

The answer lies beneath the ocean. The Nazaré Canyon is one of the longest and deepest underwater canyons in Europe — 230km long and up to 5,000m deep. When Atlantic swells travel across the ocean and hit this canyon, the energy is concentrated and amplified as the water shallows rapidly. The result is waves that can exceed 30 metres — taller than a ten-storey building.

The Records

Watching the Waves

You don't need to surf to experience Nazaré's waves. The Praia do Norte viewpoint, accessible from the Sítio clifftop above the town, offers a spectacular vantage point. During big swell events (typically November–February), hundreds of spectators gather here to watch tow-in surfers being launched into waves that dwarf them completely.

The best way to know when big swells are coming is to follow the Nazaré Challenge (WSL Big Wave Tour event) and local surf forecasting sites. Swells of 10m+ are common in winter; the truly monster swells of 20m+ happen a handful of times per season.

Surfing Nazaré Yourself

Nazaré is not for beginners. The main beach (Praia de Nazaré) has good beginner and intermediate waves in summer, but the big wave break at Praia do Norte is strictly for elite big wave surfers with tow-in equipment and safety teams.

For intermediate surfers, the Silver Coast has excellent alternatives within 30 minutes of Nazaré — Peniche (home of the Rip Curl Pro), Baleal, and São Martinho do Porto all offer excellent surf with proper surf schools.

Getting There

Nazaré is 135km north of Lisbon — a 1h45 drive or a 2-hour bus journey. The town has good accommodation options ranging from budget guesthouses to boutique hotels on the clifftop with ocean views.

Best Time to Visit: Month-by-Month

October

November

December

January

February

March

Where to Stay

Budget (€50-100/night)

Mid-Range (€100-250)

Luxury (€250+)

Getting There & Around

By Air

Local Transport

Nazaré is small and walkable, but you can rent a bicycle or use local taxis for convenience. Car rentals are available if you wish to explore the wider Silver Coast.

Costs

What to Eat & Drink

Nazaré is known for its rich culinary traditions, particularly its seafood, which is fresh from the Atlantic.

1. Caldeirada de Peixe: A traditional fish stew, often made with local catch. Expect to pay around €12-15 at local eateries like Restaurante A Tasquinha.

2. Bacalhau à Brás: A savory dish made of shredded cod, onions, and potatoes, typically served in tavernas such as O Pescador for about €10.

3. Sardinhas Assadas: Grilled sardines are a local delicacy, especially during festivals. You can find them at Casa dos Petiscos for around €8-12.

4. Polvo à Lagareiro: Octopus drizzled with olive oil and served with potatoes. A must-try at Taberna do Ti Carlos, priced around €15-18.

5. Pastéis de Nata: These famous custard tarts are available at numerous bakeries, particularly Pastelaria S. Sebastião, for about €1.50 each.

6. Ginjinha: A local cherry liqueur best enjoyed at Bar da Praia, priced at €2-4 per shot.

7. Local Wines: Sample regional wines like Vinho Verde at restaurants, typically costing €15-30 a bottle.

Insider Tips

1. Check Surf Forecasts: Use local surf forecasting sites like Magicseaweed or Surfline to catch the best swells. Knowledge of the waves can vastly enhance your viewing experience.

2. Dress in Layers: The coastal weather can shift rapidly; mornings may be chilly but afternoons can warm up. Layering will keep you comfortable while watching surfers.

3. Arrive Early for Events: During peak surf competitions, arrive early to secure a good viewing spot at the cliffs; the best locations fill quickly.

4. Explore Beyond the Beach: Take time to explore the town’s rich history; visit the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazaré and the Fort of São Miguel Arcanjo for stunning views and cultural insights.

5. Interact with Locals: The fishermen and surfers are often happy to share stories and tips about the waves and the town. Engaging with locals can provide unique insights and possibly lead to unexpected adventures.

Nazaré is not just about the surf; it’s a sensory feast of culture, cuisine, and breathtaking natural beauty that beckons both thrill-seekers and those looking to soak in the spectacle of nature. Whether you're drawn by the allure of the ocean's might or the charm of a traditional Portuguese town, Nazaré is a destination that promises unforgettable experiences.